Outlook Pitti Uomo #79

Details about the 79th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo that will take place in its usual spot at Fortezza da Basso in Florence, Italy on January 11 - 14 2011 have been made known to the public. As Raffaello Napoleone, Pitti Immagine’s CEO, announced beginning of this week, the trade fair organiser will launch two online trade fairs in January to complement Pitti Uomo and Pitti Bimbo.

As this year's special guest designer for Pitti W, the woman's pre-collection exhibition that is held parallel to Pitti Uomo, British designer Gareth Pugh has been selected. As a special events director leaked, he will be showcasing his collection in a rather unusual location - one that had never before hosted a fashion show.

"Gareth Pugh was already one of the leaders of the generation of young British fashion designers who helped to make that evening so exciting.  We have followed his work in London and Paris, seen his style evolve – from the Gothic atmospheres of the early days to today’s decidedly flamboyant effects – as well as the way he presents his collections: the video screened at the last Paris fashion week brought new energy to the discussion on the use of multimedia technologies in fashion. So we had all the right reasons for inviting Gareth Pugh to Florence and Pitti, where there is plenty of space for fashion experiments which can dialogue with the city’s unique historical and artistic venues. We are very happy that Gareth Pugh responded to our invitation with such enthusiasm." Pitti Immagine Press Release

Also, a special role at the 79th edition of Pitti Uomo will be held by the Trussardi Group.  To herald its centennial next year, Trussardi will host a multi-part event, which will include fashion, art, design and food showcases.

Pitti Uomo has a very special position in its function as Europe's biggest trade fair for male fashion. As the fair runs just before Milan fashion week, Pitti Uomo holds a reputation as a pioneer trade platforms as it allows the companies at to showcase their products very early in the annual fashion cycle. Strategically speaking, the brands can capitalize on capturing the attention of the buyers and the share of the buyers’ budgets before everybody else does. Also, Pitti Uomo has the reputation of being extremely contemporary and men's fashion brands frequently showcase new trends here first.

The summer edition of Pitti Uomo - #78 had attracted a total of 32 000 visitors out of which 19,200 were buyers. The special guest for Pitti W was Haider Ackermann, who bedazzled with his beautiful atmospheric show and his first tentative steps into men's wear. Special guest brand in summer was Jil Sander, who had menswear designer Raf Simons bring lots of colour to the topiary gardens of Villa Gamberaia.

Let's see what Pitti Uomo #79 has in store for us.

 xoxo
Glamazone

Source: style.com, WWD.com, pittiimmagine.com

All Eyes On Firenze - Pitti Uomo #78

With Pitti Uomo's 78th edition opening its gates from the 15th to the 18th at Fortezza da Basso the fashion crowd, will one more flaunt the streets of the Renaissance metropole at the Arno river for the next days. The theme, which will be framing this years' edition of the world's most important men's wear fair is "Design Watching". With 972 brands showcasing 1047 collections - out of which 75 collections and are part of the Pitti W Woman pre-collection another record has been established.

As usual, apart from the exhibition itself, there is always a vast array of goodies and events not to miss in and around Florence. On of this years highlights must surely have been Haider Ackermanns Carte Blanche event "Opium" as part of Pitti W Woman, which took place yesterday, 16th of June at the Palazzo Corsini and combined a sneak peak of his pre-collection of women's wear with pieces of his eagerly anticipated men's wear debut. The designer who usually showcases his collections in Paris was offered an entirely different stage for his defile and a great opportunity to add a bit of excitement, fresh inspiration and a drama to his premiere in men's wear.

The atmosphere had been created all-embracingly in the oppulent palazzo. The abundant feasting tables overflowing with fruit arrangements and decanters full of wine as if they stood there ready to witness a bacchanal. Some dignified glory and the charms of a by-gone era, which emanated from the wall frescoes. Ackermann's defile took place open-air, in the atrium of the late-baroque Palazzo Corsini, where, under sumptuous chandeliers, the fashion crowd was taken away by his vision and the flair he had created around his collection. Jamie Bochert playing piano and singing was just the icing on the cake to this overall setting.

“Between force and fragility, between masculinity and femininity, the Ackermann women, with a distant gesture speaks about beauty, about melancholy, about wandering, about escaping a certain nostalgia…about love… for men whose gesture are as « lointain », élégant, masculine, illusive, decadent, reserved, debauched…his heart on the run… Carte blanche, named « opium ».”

Haider Ackermann sent his men and woman on a journey, where with flowy fabrics in plum, black, nude and grey shades, the draping and layers from his previous collections were picked up, yet, transformed by obi-inspired knots (woman's collection) and eclectic voyage wardrobe, with nomad-style layered shirts, male kimono-influenced waistcoats and brocade jackets, loosely fit embroidered pants in the men's wear collection, accessorized with Indian inspired slippers with peacock feathers and shawls that had a rather Middle Eastern air.

A wonderfully inspiring and cohesive collection and a bold and brave move into the male pret-a-porter, presented in an atmospheric picturesque setting. However, as much as I like the fact that he made a statement in his first men's collection, I very much prefered the simpler designs, which were quite wearable and a lot less costume-y than the brocade jackets. It surely will be worth keeping ones' eyes open on how Haider Ackermann will proceed with his male collection.

xoxo
Glamazone 

Sources: stylebubble.co.uk, pittiimagine.com
Picture Sources: pittiimagine.com