Friday, 18 June 2010

All Eyes On Firenze Pt. II - Pitti Uomo #78

Another special event presented in line with the 78th edition of Pitti Uomo was Raf Simons' Prêt-à-porter collection spring/summer '11 for Jil Sander, which was held in the topiary gardens of Villa Gamberaia, another picturesque Tuskan setting at the outskirts of Florence, yesterday, 18th of June 2010 at nightfall. Jil Sander also livestreamed the show on their website.

As Jil Sander is said to be the queen of minimalism and pure aesthetics, the brand's men's wear designer Raf Simons, stuck to the fashion houses concept at least concerning the shapes and cuts of the garments: The familiar raglan shirts, simple blousons, tight fitted cotton pants, slim fitted trench coats, creased shorts. In terms of colour however, you name it, it was there. The entire rainbow spectrum seemed to have found its way into the collection. Peach coloured and sunny yellow shirts, multi-coloured stripes, bright floral prints, bubblegum pink or turquoise jackets, (very) short pants in apple green and royal blue, trench coats with nested sleeves in poppy red and navy - just to name a few. The gaiety of colours seemed endless and gave a strong contrast to the rather romantic backdrop of the show. The colourful shirts, jackets and beautifully belted trench coats were often also combined with creased, fitted cotton pants and classic black and navy Oxford shoes. A rather nice eyecatcher were the soles of the shoes, which stood out in bright colours like orange, green or blue as well as the appliqués at the waisted trench coats and jackets.

The combination of electric colours with simple cuts and fabrics was powerful and very Jil Sander. The collection is definitely appealing and, singly worn and combined with a plain complementing garment, the pieces still are statements in their own rights. Raf Simons managed the balancing act between creating something strong, however stuck to the Jil Sander aestetic masterly. The collection is a representative example for one key trend that has been emerging from Pitti Uomo #78, as numerous designers have been offering a mentionable colour palette.
Spring/summer '11 promises to become a vivid season.


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