Tuesday, 15 February 2011

Severe with a twist - Marc Jacob's A/W 2011 RTW

  If one had to brainstorm compatible materials for a collection, latex and lace seems like an odd choice - not for Marc Jacobs apparently - which he proved today in his fall/winter 2011 ready to wear collection.
Jacobs, who triggered the big 70ies boom that has strongly been channeled during New York Fashion Week this season, has clearly moved on from this homage to Yves Saint Laurent's glamour hippie look and is displaying quite a contrast in his current collection.
Strict silhouettes, strong cuts and prim necklines replaced last season's effortless fluidity and left a far more rakish and sexy impression as one might expect from those buttoned-up styles at first glance.
Marc Jacobs paid tribute to himself by reviving some themes of previous collections - the polka dots for example were an ode to his first collection, which was showcased 20 years ago - and spicing them up through an eclectic mix of textures and fabrics. Fake fur met synthetic materials, latex met lace, vinyl met real fur. Jacobs managed to deliver a strong collection which looked serious and kinky at the same time - feminine, elegant shapes with an undeniable ironic twist to them - i.e. a rubber dress that was processed to look like sequins.

The girlish polka dot theme resurfaced in every imaginable and unimaginable material and size - from tiny spotted socks to three dimensional vinyl buttons and polka dot embellishments in a wide array of textures and materials. The colour palette ranged from classic navy to burgundy, grey and black combined with the occasional white shirt.
Sharply tailored outerwear emphasised the fitted silhouettes of the skirts and dresses and added that dash of sophistication to the outfits.

Despite the prim and austere look, accessories like the short gloves, playful mini-baretts and pill box hats that were fixated with a tight chin strap were just the coquettish icing on the cake of the collection.

J'adore! A very smart-looking collection which managed to conjoin seemingly contradictory materials and statements to a very contemporary and elegant look.


Source: WWD.com, style.com
Picture Source: style.com

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