Sunday, 27 February 2011

Reminiscent yet modern - Versace A/W RTW 2011

The venue that was selected to host the Versace catwalk show - Via Gesu Milan, the couryard of her deceased brother Gianni's Milan mansion - already suggested that Donatella Versace would be walking down memory lane with her current collection.

Apparently, Donatella had grappled with the maison's history and archive recently and processed this in her garments, which seemed more to the point than usual and less flashy at the same time.
The ubiquous sexiness that is the predominant streak in every Versace collection was pleasantly reticent and consequently more appealing. A signature baroque Versace curlicue was rediscovered and echoed in bold colourful snaky details that meandered around the otherwise plane and sleek garments. The colour palette comprehended a lot of black and white and was spiced up with purple and petrol shades as well as the occasional canary yellow. Quite startling that in a season where most big Italian brands went fur and exotic skin galore that of all things Versace went a little more low key than usual and won us over with a sleek sexiness that was less brash and in-your-face.

Versace blended feminine cuts with military style and created beautiful jackets that convinced with their sharp cuts and simple bold details like gold buttons with the Medusa signature emblem and golden belt buckles. The angular sharply tailored assymetric dresses with the sexy side slits and smart back cut-outs were as simple as they were effortlessly stylish. The balancing act between sleek restraint and sexy decadence  - reflected in particular by the leather outfits which comprised black pleated glazed leather skirts -was nicely managed and spiced up with beautiful peep toe boots in various executions - ranging from laced glazed leather boots to patent leather ones - as well as desirable hobo bags. The usage of furs and exotic skins seemed rather dosed compared to other collections during Milan fashion week - who would have thought that this is something you might ever write about Versace?! Also, observable was that this collection paid significantly less attention to the eveningwear than usual but the few pieces shown were a direct hit.

The combination of simple yet sharp cuts and bold Versace signature details made the collection striking and powerful.


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