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Saturday, 28 August 2010

Recession curves

A homage to women – and better times

While the effects of the crisis are still perceivable in many countries, the look of the 50ies and 60ies instantly reminds us of boom times.

The tight sweaters shaped by the 50ies conical bra, suspender belts & girdles worn under petticoats or pencil skirts evoke a desire towards the classic femininity with its shapes and curves. The aesthetics of an era we instantly associate with the economically wealthy times of the 50ies and 60ies.

Golden Globe and Emmy awarded AMC series „Mad men“ brought us - together with the look of the early 60ies - a new femininity on the screen. On the catwalks, foremostly Miuccia Prada and Louis Vuitton confronted us with a new female paradigm. Curves replace androgynous shapes. Bosom, waist and hip have been re-discovered as the headturners of the seasons to come.
It's high time to celebrate feminity and its icons - time to say goodbye to utility chic and casualization after decades of androgynous, sober boy-ish figures on TV and on the catwalks. The body ideal has been changed to female heroines with explicitly curvy bodys.
A healthy share of the re-discovery of the feminine female body, can surely be attributed to "Mad Men" and its fabulously talented costume designer, Janie Bryant who has been digging up petticoats, pencil skirts, costumes, cone shaped bras and suspender belts to celebrate the gloriously iconic fashion times of the 50ies and 60ies.

Even the toughest jeans & t-shirt warrior is sighing in melancholy in sight of the 50ies a-shaped skirts or 60ies pencil skirts ...well, if these are leaving you cold, then it is the men in dinner jackets that make your heart melt.
Somehow the imagination of dressing up according to certain rules and re-inflicting real glamour and style onto us gains momentum, doesn't it?!


xoxo

Glamazone


Picture source: www.nydailynews.com, www.fashion-era.com

Wednesday, 11 August 2010

I love my scarf

If you consider Hermès scarves to be an old fashioned accessory only appropriate for elder ladies and polished upper class mademoiselles, think again.The traditional French fashion house has launched a new website called J'aime Mon Carre ("I love my scarf"), where the brand proves to be perfectly up to date with zeitgeist and young urban fashion culture.



The website has been launched to mark the creative liaison between Hermès and Parisian ueber-hip concept store Colette , who have teamed up for a special edition of scarves, which will be sold exclusively at Colette during September.

Jaimemoncarre.com is a cool omnium-gatherum of snapshot-like photographs, shortfilms from fashion & style capitals (Paris, London, NYC & Tokyo) and inspiration for Hermes devotees. Classic Hermès carres are featured  in hip & stylish street looks. Colorful pictures feature creative ideas of how to wear the carre as headbands, turbans, tops or belts and of course as a scarf.
Far from dusty, elitist snobbery, Hermès displays the fun and contemporary appeal of its silk pieces and invites younger generations to be creative, cool and sexy with them.


Hip footage, wide arrays of photo material, street style galore, a treasure chest full of ideas and inspiration to target younger trendier customers and involve them in what feels like a community.
A brilliant approach to make the brand accessible to a younger and hipper target audience who might have reservations towards the brand otherwise.


My opinion? Do I really have to spell it out? I heart Hermès.

xoxo
Glamazone 


Sources: jaimemoncarre.com, elle.co.uk

Thursday, 22 July 2010

Shaping/Shopping the Future

Net-a-porter magazine - launch of a new iPad app 

“The best way to predict the future is to create it.” Abraham Lincoln once said - but some people live in compliance to that bon mot more than others.
I have just finished watching the live streaming of Natalie Massenet interview for Business of Fashion's Fashion Pioneers series. It was a truly inspiring interview with the "visionary on stilettos", who is the founder of the worldwide most successful online shop for designer fashion, Net-a-Porter.  Not only has Net-a-Porter been fronting the crisis (the sales numbers are proof to that) but also has she been launching an outlet for designer fashion in 2009 (theoutnet.com ) and is about to launch an equivalent to Net-a-Porter for male designer fashion (MrPorter.com), which will go online in January 2011.
In my opinion, the entire audience who was watching the life stream has just witnessed a solution for the dilemma that fashion magazines are finding themselves in - possibly even THE solution.
Somebody once said that the publishing houses worldwide owe Steve Jobs big time - due to his iPad, people will continue to read books and magazines. Maybe, there is a few more who have to thank Steve Jobs and his unperturbed intuition and vision. But let's not give all the credit to Steve Jobs, shall we - like the iPhone, the iPad's value stands and falls to a considerable extent with the apps developers create for it. So for this particular treat, we'll have to thank the think tank working for Natalie Massenet:


Net-a-porters latest magnum opus  is to combine fashion magazines and e-commerce directly - as an application for the iPad called Net-a-Porter Magazine. The app was presented during the live streaming interview by Net-a-Porters founder in person tonight and will be officially launched tomorrow. What Natalie Massenet pulled out of her couture hat is - in her own words "to offer a magazine-like experience", which is directly combined with etailing. The app will give you the possibility to "read, watch and shop wherever you are" according to the description in the iTunes store.The clou is, as opposed to most glossy magazines, offering actual couture photo spreads once a month, Net-a-Porter will update its app every week - yes, you heard right -52 times a year. One thing we can assume for sure: Natalie Massenet is not going to waste our time with cheap productions. Having had her origins in fashion journalism working for the fashion bible WWD and other magazines as well as being a stylist, we even can expect great editorials for the new webzine.

I am very happy about the idea and I am curious to see whether or not this will set a precedent in the etailing industry. I strongly believe that creating a hybrid between online retailing and glossy magazines is a great step into the future for both industries. Also, I am truly curious of how and when other online retailers will be jumping on the bandwagon.

xoxo
Glamazone

Sources: thebusinessoffashion.com, net-a-porter.com, iTunes Store

Wednesday, 21 July 2010

Time to re-think

Is it possible, that with our endless quest for security and safety in our lives, we increasingly find it difficult to adjust ourselves to new structures? Maybe, our old ideas of trends, seasons, haute couture, pret-a-porter, fast fashion and all the hybrids in between are outdated already... with our intuitive desire to label things new perspectives might be restricted. It is time to challenge our old thinking patterns:
When will the fashion industry and the satellite industries around it start to admit that mass market is dead and instead we are confronted with numerous micro markets? How can we target those micro markets in journalism, marketing and PR if every individual in it is insisting to be oh-so-different from his comrades? If the lasting vintage hype has shown us one thing, it is that people are beyond the stage of wanting to look the same and wearing a global uniformtrend is done-  individualism is trump.  The spottet casualization of clothing during the last years might just be another extension of the desire to put behind global fashion conformity.
Are we on the verge of experiencing a renaissance of bespoke fashion? Of custom-made tailoring and of brands, which are delivering regional micro trends instead of global fashion? Are pop-up stores the answer to our ever-changing taste levels and the ennui that holds us in his tight grip when facing same-old retail environments?
We are confronted with an up to now unknown flood of textile possibilities and fashion diversity.  

The even and rigid mask of mass consumerism has been dropped and shattered into numberless splinters, resulting in each and every broken fragment becoming an entitiy in its own right, with its own vivid psychographic profile, its own taste levels, desires and preferences.
Despite the financial reality that has hit us all in the face over the last years, we are all becoming more and more aware of the fact that the economy of scarcity is long gone and we have been living in an economy of abundance for quite some time already. What does that mean for us, the consumer? Well, very simple: WE get to chose - sometimes we even get to dictate. The internet as the most democratic medium in the world, has enabled us to have almost anything at our command one Visa Card and one click away.
We get to influence the market, due to a shift of power from producer to consumer: economical success of companies depends on our goodwill and them keeping us happy. Many companies have been shifting from being product oriented towards being consumer oriented, which means we'll get what we want and we even have a say under which conditions we get it.
Designer darlings and fashion faux-pas are no longer exclusively appointed by elitist fashion crowd working for Conde Nast but alternatively can be proclaimed by pretty much anybody: bloggers, unknown journalists and so on. One percentage of the world population is suddenly able to become opinion leader in a movement. For god's sake, don't expect a new world order just yet - but sometimes it is a good thing to realise and acknowledge significant changes.


Exciting times we are in - even more exciting times lie ahead of us.

xoxo
Glamazone

Friday, 16 July 2010

CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Finalists 2010

The CFDA(Council of Fashion Designers of America) and Vogue Magazine have announced this year's ten finalists have been named for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fun initiative, which will provide business mentorship and as well the financial funding for its winner.
2010 is the seventh time a winner will be announced to receive an award endowed with $200,00 trophy money, whereas the two runner-ups will be put off with a consolation prize worth $50,000.

The finalists and their brands are the following:

 Joseph Altuzarra (ALTUZARRA), Billy Reid (BILLY REID), Christian Cota (CHRISTIAN COTA), Eddie Borgo (EDDIE BORGO), Gregory Parkinson (GREGORY PARKINSON), Oliver Helden and Paul Marlow (LODEN DAGER), Moss Lipow (MOSS LIPOW), Pamela Love (PAMELA LOVE JEWELRY), Prabal Gurung (PRABAL GURUNG), Robert Geller (ROBERT GELLER)

The selection process will be taking place in end of July and consist of individual interviews with the nominees, reviews of their latest collections as well as a visit to the design studio of each contestant.
The final decision will be announced in New York City on November 15 during a gala dinner.
 Amongst the now-famous winners and runners-up of previous years' CFDA/Vogue Fashion fund are designers like Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler, Thakoon, Philip Lim, Derek Lam and Rodarte.
 Among the famous mentors were industry professionals like Howard Socol (ex-CEO of Barney's, Rose Marie Bravo (ex-CEO Burberry Group), Domenico de Sole and Mark Lee (both ex-CEO of Gucci).


The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund was created to support designers with a business perspective and is aimed to help them and their brand built a secure future and develop their overall strategy, their production, marketing, PR and sales.

Let's keep our eyes open about who's going to make the race... and how all the publicity will help the other nominees to establish themselves solidly within in the industry

xoxo
Glamazone