Sunday, 17 October 2010

Stepping Up: YSL Spring/Summer 11

This season, Stefano Pilati deviated from a few of his habitual patterns - and it seems it paid off. Instead of showing the défilé of his Yves Saint Laurent spring/summer '11 collection in the Grand Palais where he had been showing in previous seasons, Stefano Pilati decided to have the show in the more intimate setting of a Rothschild townhouse, the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild in Paris' eigth arrondissment. 

Also, this season, Stefano Pilati had two trends in favour of the YSL look - the interplay between femininity and masculinity and the homage that several designers had paid to the heritage of their brands.
The Yves Saint Laurent retrospective, which had been exhibited in the Grand Palais from March until September 2010 might have just been the inspiration - the one missing component- that put the Milanese designer at ease with the challenging heritage of the brand.
It seemed as if a heavy weight had finally been lifted of his shoulders as he managed to present a collection that was so classic Yves Saint Laurent, yet felt so contemporary and coherent at the same time.

The duality between strict, sharply cut jackets, bourgeouis pantsuits, timeless trenchcoats and romantic paysanne ruffles, gypsy dresses, semi-translucent pussy bow blouses, lantern-sleeve tops was executed perfectly and reflected the maison's bourgeouis spirit.The through and through elegant and sophisticated collection combined softness and feminity effortlessly with sharp masculine smoking jackets, trenchcoats and glamorous jumpsuits.
A colour palette ranging from classic black, white and navy to sophisticated taupe was spiced up by the mesmerizing tangerine blouses and dashes of turqouise and blue.
Beautifully cut dresses, subtle displays of just enough skin, great cross-shaped collars, cinched waistlines, elongated 40ies lines - the Yves Saint Laurent spring/summer collection '11 was an impeccable display of subtle elegance and sophistication. The styling of the models featured sleek braided updos with centre parting  that brought out the elaborate neckline of the dresses and blouses even better. The make-up consisted of a flawless porcelaine complexion, bleached brows and timelessly chic rouge noir lips and fingernails that were just the icing on the cake.

With subtle eroticism, powerful YSL signature looks, fine details and effortless sophistication, Stefano Pilati finally delivered the collection the industry had been waiting for so impatiently. To check video footage of the show, go to


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