All Eyes On Firenze - Pitti Uomo #78

With Pitti Uomo's 78th edition opening its gates from the 15th to the 18th at Fortezza da Basso the fashion crowd, will one more flaunt the streets of the Renaissance metropole at the Arno river for the next days. The theme, which will be framing this years' edition of the world's most important men's wear fair is "Design Watching". With 972 brands showcasing 1047 collections - out of which 75 collections and are part of the Pitti W Woman pre-collection another record has been established.

As usual, apart from the exhibition itself, there is always a vast array of goodies and events not to miss in and around Florence. On of this years highlights must surely have been Haider Ackermanns Carte Blanche event "Opium" as part of Pitti W Woman, which took place yesterday, 16th of June at the Palazzo Corsini and combined a sneak peak of his pre-collection of women's wear with pieces of his eagerly anticipated men's wear debut. The designer who usually showcases his collections in Paris was offered an entirely different stage for his defile and a great opportunity to add a bit of excitement, fresh inspiration and a drama to his premiere in men's wear.

The atmosphere had been created all-embracingly in the oppulent palazzo. The abundant feasting tables overflowing with fruit arrangements and decanters full of wine as if they stood there ready to witness a bacchanal. Some dignified glory and the charms of a by-gone era, which emanated from the wall frescoes. Ackermann's defile took place open-air, in the atrium of the late-baroque Palazzo Corsini, where, under sumptuous chandeliers, the fashion crowd was taken away by his vision and the flair he had created around his collection. Jamie Bochert playing piano and singing was just the icing on the cake to this overall setting.

“Between force and fragility, between masculinity and femininity, the Ackermann women, with a distant gesture speaks about beauty, about melancholy, about wandering, about escaping a certain nostalgia…about love… for men whose gesture are as « lointain », élégant, masculine, illusive, decadent, reserved, debauched…his heart on the run… Carte blanche, named « opium ».”

Haider Ackermann sent his men and woman on a journey, where with flowy fabrics in plum, black, nude and grey shades, the draping and layers from his previous collections were picked up, yet, transformed by obi-inspired knots (woman's collection) and eclectic voyage wardrobe, with nomad-style layered shirts, male kimono-influenced waistcoats and brocade jackets, loosely fit embroidered pants in the men's wear collection, accessorized with Indian inspired slippers with peacock feathers and shawls that had a rather Middle Eastern air.

A wonderfully inspiring and cohesive collection and a bold and brave move into the male pret-a-porter, presented in an atmospheric picturesque setting. However, as much as I like the fact that he made a statement in his first men's collection, I very much prefered the simpler designs, which were quite wearable and a lot less costume-y than the brocade jackets. It surely will be worth keeping ones' eyes open on how Haider Ackermann will proceed with his male collection.

xoxo
Glamazone 

Sources: stylebubble.co.uk, pittiimagine.com
Picture Sources: pittiimagine.com 

Accolade for Karl Lagerfeld

- Hand the kaiser what is fit for the kaiser -

The fashion industry will have to consider swapping Karl Lagerfeld's much-cherished term of endearment "Kaiser Karl" to "Commander Karl" in future references, as Karl Lagerfeld has been decorated as Commander of the French Legion of Honor by French President Nicolas Sarkozy in the Elysee Palace in Paris, yesterday, June 3rd 2010. The order ( Ordre national de la Légion d'honneur), once established by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1802 is the highest civilian decoration of France and comprises highly acclaimed members of the likes of  Queen Elizabeth II, Laurence Olivier, Walt Disney and Clint Eastwood as well as fellow designers Ralph Lauren, John Galliano, Giorgio Armani, Valentino and Yves Saint Lauren.

Being the over-achiever he is - keep in mind, that Karl is currently designing for Chanel, Fendi, his eponymous collection, plus has earned himself a reputation as a photographer and recently debuted as a director for his short film  "Remember Now", obviously, Mr. Lagerfeld did not bother with trivia and skipped straight to Commander of the Legion of honour, which is the 3rd of 5 classes of the order.

The outstanding designer with German origin, who has quite successfully transformed himself into a well-recognized brand all over the world, can surely call 2010 a good year, as it also has been announced that he will be honoured by the Couture Council of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology with a Special Visionary Award later this year.
Furthermore the multitasker has he been tapped to shot the much anticipated 2011 Pirelli Calendar, which will be unveiled on the 30th of November in Moscow and is likely to feature amongst others Karl's favorites Iris Strubegger, Heidi Mount, Natasha Poly, Elisa Sednaoui and Magdalena Frackowiak as well as some until now unknown male models (Anybody up for a bet that his muse Baptiste Giabiconi will be amongst the lucky bunch?!).

Back to his new title - I have to say Commander of the French Legion of Honor goes very well with Karl Lagerfeld's royalty status in the fashion world and am happy to congratulate him to this much deserved honour!


xoxo
Glamazone

Source: WWD.com, chanelbagmall.com, vogue.com, nitrolicious.com, lachanelphile.com
Picture Source: vogue.com,

Sarah Burton designing for Alexander McQueen

After months of speculation, finally today, Sarah Burton was announced new head of design for Alexander McQueen. Previously this year, Gucci Group had decided to carry on with the successful brand after the eponymous designer's tragic suicide in February 2010.
Finally rumours that designers like king-of-goth Gareth Pugh might take over Mr. McQueens realms were defeated by the decision to acclaim one of the strong forces at Alexander McQueen's side head of design to unify operations and appoint somebody from the inside of the company.

Sarah Burton had been working in the fashion house since 1996, a year before her graduation from Central Saint Martins. Burton had also completed Alexander McQueen's last défilé for autumn/winter 2010, which was praised enthusiastically by press and industry. Being his long time assistant and having been head of design for womenswear since 2000, Burton stated that she intends to stay true to his legacy. Also Jonathan Akeryod, CEO of the House of Alexander McQueen stated in a press release that "...having worked alongside Lee McQueen for more than 14 years, she has a deep understanding of his vision, which will allow the company to stay true to its core values".


We shall hope so.

xoxo
Glamazone

Source: WWD.com 
Picture Source: WWD.com, www.alexandermcqueen.com

Hermès says goodbye to JP Gaultier

Rumble in the jungle at Hermès:

After seven years under the creative reign of former fashion enfant terrible Jean Paul Gaultier, Hermès' new creative director will be Christophe Lemaire, who is known in the industry for successfully revamping the image of French sportswear brand Lacoste, where he had been working during the previous eight years. Under the new designer, Hermès is most likely to take a more commercial approach towards its prêt-à-porter  line and move away from the avantgarde approach, Jean Paul Gaultier - and before him Martin Margiela had brought to the maison.

Despite Hermès' consistent sales growth throughout 2009, which continued strongly in Q1 2010 ( 18.5% at current exchange rates). It is commonly known, that prêt-à-porter is mainly an affair to the heart (and for the publicity - think of all the coverage!) and despite the fact that the maison is declaring an overall growth of 19% of the Ready-to-Wear and Fashion Accessories resort, this growth is assumingly driven mostly by the fashion accessories. This however is a development, which is representative for all high fashion houses, who have been drawing most of their sales growth out of their licences and accessories ranges as they are accessible to a bigger segment of customers.
As Hermès' and Jean Paul Gaultier's relationship goes beyond the creative direction - Hermès owns nearly 45% of Jean Paul Gaultier's own label's stock - and despite a statement that Hermès does not intend to sell their shares, according to gossip sources, there are speculations that they might. As Jean Paul Gaultier's fragrance licence - also in this case the cash cow of the brand is owned by Beauté Prestige, Hermès does not profit from his main turnover generator but still profits from his haute couture, RTW collection and his accessories line.
According to Hermès, Jean Paul Gaultier's last collection for the maison will be the spring collection 2011 - which is to be revealed in Paris in October 2010. The same applies for Lemaire, who will be presenting his last Lacoste collection in October as well. His successor has not yet been established.

Jean Paul Gaultier from 2004 on surprised the brands devotees with a rejuvenating cure by revamping the dimensions of the Birkin, creating the Kelly clutch and including Hermès' classical equestrian themes and emblems as details in various accessories and pieces of the RTW collection. Unforgotten also, the staging of his Amelia Erhardt hommage in the fall/winter collection 2009, which just gave one example of the designers visionary approach and his surpassing ability to work with the most luxurious materials in the world in a contemporary realisation.

Farewell, Jean Paul Gaultier, I am convinced you will further impress the French fashion landscape with your own collections. Welcome, Christophe Lemaire - you will have to follow in some massive footsteps.
The fashion industry will certainly keep the eyes open for Lemaire's debut and will anticipate curiously if la maison Hermès will align its strategy further in the seasons to come. Will there be a slight wind of change affecting the French traditional house after Jean-Louis Dumas succumbed to his Parkinson disease earlier in May? 


xoxo
Glamazone

Source: fashionista.com; WWD.com; 
Picture Source: www.lefigaro.fr; www.freshfish.se 

Saint Tropez Spirit

It is likely that during spring time, no place is more glamourous than the Côte d’Azur in Southern France. With the 63th edition of the Cannes International Film Festival just around the corner (btw. this year's jury president is Tim Burton), another glorious event heralded the opening of the glamour season. The occasion is the launch of Kaiser Karl's Chanel Cruise Collection, which was launched yesterday in Saint Tropez in front of Sénéquier, one of the Riviera's hotspot bars to see and being seen.
Chanel's cruise collection '11 had to outgrow its atmospheric precedent collection for '10, which had been taking place at the Lido di Venezia and had Thomas Mann's Death in Venice as its theme. I cannot help remembering last year’s extravaganza and wondered, if Chanel - the brand which is arguably offering the most important cruise collection amongst the designer brands, can live up to last year’s sensation.
This time, Karl Lagerfeld's approach was a lot lighter in comparison to last year’s literary backing. Chanel’s multitalented chief designer tried to revamp the Côte d’Azur feeling of the 60ies and 70ies. Another designer gone director, Lagerfeld launched his short film "Remember Now", at the Cinéma de la Renaissance the night before the défilé of the Cruise Collection ’11.

Karl basically cross linked his short film, which portrays an ageing playboy’s (Pascal Greggory) nocturnal foray into the carefree night life of the jeunesse dorée in Saint Tropez – starring Lagerfeld’s entourage and inspirations – amongst others Elisa Sednaoui, Freja Beha Erichsen, Abbey Lee Kershaw, Heidi Mount, Leigh Lezark and his omnipresent muse Baptiste Giabiconi. Some wicket pundits may call it another midlife crisis masterpiece – however, considered as the frame work to his collection, I believe it perfectly embodied the Saint Tropez life of its rich and/or beautiful (seasonal) inhabitants strained to the point of cliché.
Back to the actual collection: Karl Lagerfeld had his models disembark a speedboat, barefoot and wearing loose summer clothing like tunics, light, flowing trousers and jumpsuits. The impression was that after sunbathing and partying on a yacht all day long, its glamorous priveleged occupants came ashore for a sunset apéritif and a stroll at Saint Tropez’ harbour. Light accessories, dangling necklaces, bangles, sumptuous anklets, strappy sandals, layered summer outfits with frills- the collection itself appeared surprisingly youthful and fresh, yet with the unmistakable Chanel signature elements and a well-thought-through setting in front of a beautiful scenery.
Pastels and pinks, cropped bouclé jackets and dresses – even the occasional denim skirt has caught up with Chanel. Lagerfeld’s collection seemed very relaxed, carefree and felt a lot lighter than previous years'. You could clearly feel the enjoyment and Mediterranean ease of Saint Tropez in the youthful overall-concept.

In particular if you had seen the short film, one could detect Karl Lagerfeld’s homage to the golden times of his second home - the Côte d’Azur- in the 60ies and 70ies. His references paid tribute to Jade Jagger and the white pantsuit she wore at her wedding to Mick Jagger in 1971 , to Brigitte Bardot – embodied by the sensuous Giorgia May Jagger and generally to the spirit of the times. High-waisted denim flares in brown, black or white, flowy hippie inspired tops and tunics, knitwear as well as the suede leather overknee boots gave a clear flair of the bygone era.
All in all, Karl Lagerfeld once more managed to present an intrinsically coherent collection -and beyond that an entire concept - which framed his inspirations beautifully and once more proved that he is a man with a vision and an enthusiast for the big picture.

xoxo
Glamazone

Picture Source: style.com, WWD.com, independent.co.uk