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Showing posts with label marc jacobs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label marc jacobs. Show all posts

Saturday, 2 June 2012

Louis Vuitton - Marc Jacobs - Exhibition at Musée des Arts Décoratifs

It appears fashion exhibits become increasingly popular and attract more and more visitors. A trend that has received yet another boost by "Alexander McQueen - Savage Beauty", which was displayed at the MET in 2011, but surely reflects also the zeitgeist of people acknowledging fashion as a mean of expression and  significant component of pop culture.
Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris, which frequently hosts fashion related exhibitions, is currently showing "Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs" from the 9th of March until the 16th of September 2012.


A comparison - or should I say confrontation - of two individuals, who at very different epochs could establish themselves as designers and innovators who contributed to the world of fashion and who helped build up the brand Louis Vuitton at each of their eras and both in their own right.
Could Louis Vuitton (1821 - 1892), founder of his namesake company, which has grown to become one of the globally best known fashion brands and integral part of the world's biggest fashion & luxury conglomerate LVMH have dreamt of the role his company and name would still play in today's fashion circus? What do those two men have in  common? Where lie their differences? Which role did they play for the brand Louis Vuitton? And how have those two men contributed to Louis Vuitton still being significant today?
These are just a few questions, this exhibit seeks to elaborate.


One man growing up amidst the exciting times of industrial revolution, witnessing increasing urbanization, technical inventions, profound changes in the social, economic and cultural conditions of the times.
A contemporary of Gustave Eiffel, famous architect who built the Tour Eiffel for the Exposition Universelle in 1889 and Charles Frederic Worth, the Englishman who historically has been credited as founder of Haute Couture and the first big Parisian fashion house in the 19th century.
Louis Vuitton, a craftsman with a vision and a great business instinct, who offered his product range - customized luggage for fashion- to the affluent bourgeoisie of Paris. His product innovations included compartmentalized suitcases, a folding bed that could be transported in a suitcase as well as his probably most important invention: a water- and airproof coat, which made his suitcases extremely durable and therefore highly requested by the wealthy social class who could afford to travel. As Louis Vuitton was very far sighted, he patented several of his inventions in order to be able to maintain his position as an innovator and market leader and to be able to avoid his competitors from copying his products.
After his death in 1892, his son George took over the family business, continued with its international expansion and amongst other things introduced the world renown, highly coveted (and most counterfeited)  LV- signet in 1896.

    

On the other side, Marc Jacobs who has been holding the creative reign at Louis Vuitton for 15 years. The American designer, who in 1984 graduated from Parson's School of Design in New York City, who worked several years for Perry Ellis, where he was dismissed after his controversially received (yet, up until today famed) collection "Grunge" in 1993. Marc Jacobs - together with his business partner Robert Duffy - returned to his namesake brand, which only took off after Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH agreed to finance Marc Jacob's eponymous brand and helped opening his first store on Mercer Street in NYC after he signed a contract to design for one of the big brands of his group.


In January 1997, Marc Jacobs took over the position of creative director at Louis Vuitton, a brand, which despite its great success with bags and leather goods up until then did not even have a ready-to-wear line. What followed was a victory parade of RTW collections and a number of design collaborations with the likes of Stephen Sprousse, Richard Prince and Takashi Murakami, which helped to define the image of Louis Vuitton and turn the brand from a classic French brand for bags and luggage into one the world's most widespread, well-known and profitable luxury fashion brands.



In this exhibition, two worlds collide - the best way to wrap it up in a few words is to say it encompasses snapshots in the history of a brand throughout two world-changing eras (industrialization on the one hand side and globalization on the other). Each of those men accompanied and led the brand Louis Vuitton forward as a creator and innovator, who embraced the challenges of his time.
 
Thankfully each of the sections dedicated to one of its subjects is located on a different floor. The stairs escalating from the Louis Vuitton section to the Marc Jacobs one hardly suffice for the mental switch one has to flip in order to readjust ones brain from the lifestyle of the 19th century to the challenges of the 21st century.
(The Marc Jacobs section is started with Marc's World, where the spectator gets a peek into the designer's colorful world of inspiration through numerous film clippings displayed on computer screens ranging from J.S. Bach to Spongebob, a nude Vivien Westwood, Liz Taylor and many more...).



An exhibition definitely worth visiting, however, the cohesion of the two sections dedicated to each of the designers are few and are mostly to be found in the way, both Vuitton and Jacobs understood and worked the zeitgeist and requirements of their customers for novelty and lifestyle throughout their challenging times.

xoxo
Glamazone


Sources: www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr, http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424053111903918104576500332879275742.html
Picture Sources: www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr, 

Tuesday, 15 February 2011

Severe with a twist - Marc Jacob's A/W 2011 RTW

  If one had to brainstorm compatible materials for a collection, latex and lace seems like an odd choice - not for Marc Jacobs apparently - which he proved today in his fall/winter 2011 ready to wear collection.
Jacobs, who triggered the big 70ies boom that has strongly been channeled during New York Fashion Week this season, has clearly moved on from this homage to Yves Saint Laurent's glamour hippie look and is displaying quite a contrast in his current collection.
Strict silhouettes, strong cuts and prim necklines replaced last season's effortless fluidity and left a far more rakish and sexy impression as one might expect from those buttoned-up styles at first glance.
Marc Jacobs paid tribute to himself by reviving some themes of previous collections - the polka dots for example were an ode to his first collection, which was showcased 20 years ago - and spicing them up through an eclectic mix of textures and fabrics. Fake fur met synthetic materials, latex met lace, vinyl met real fur. Jacobs managed to deliver a strong collection which looked serious and kinky at the same time - feminine, elegant shapes with an undeniable ironic twist to them - i.e. a rubber dress that was processed to look like sequins.

The girlish polka dot theme resurfaced in every imaginable and unimaginable material and size - from tiny spotted socks to three dimensional vinyl buttons and polka dot embellishments in a wide array of textures and materials. The colour palette ranged from classic navy to burgundy, grey and black combined with the occasional white shirt.
Sharply tailored outerwear emphasised the fitted silhouettes of the skirts and dresses and added that dash of sophistication to the outfits.

Despite the prim and austere look, accessories like the short gloves, playful mini-baretts and pill box hats that were fixated with a tight chin strap were just the coquettish icing on the cake of the collection.

J'adore! A very smart-looking collection which managed to conjoin seemingly contradictory materials and statements to a very contemporary and elegant look.


xoxo
Glamazone

Source: WWD.com, style.com
Picture Source: style.com

Friday, 10 September 2010

Socks and sandals

Yes, you read correctly - and no, this has nothing to do with the fact that I am German - I swear! I do know that it sounds wrong and like a classic fashion faux-pas but obviously, I am not talking Birkenstocks & white tennis socks. I am talking the stylish options proposed by Prada, Mark Jacobs and others for this fall/winter season.


As an autumnal chill is starting to creep up our legs, we start wondering how to amend our styles for the cooler seasons ahead.
We are all aware that pulling of this look we'll be balancing on the edge. Which shoes to wear with which types of socks is the obvious question.

 #1: Do instantly ban all imagines of nerdy tourists, ageing hippies, misguided men - actually all lapses of fashion within this category out of your head. Do it now.

#2:  Generally I would really avoid the colour white - and obviously sport socks (!) and opt for some grey, black or neutral shades

#3: Frilled socks? Think about the following: Do you look like a cheap adult entertainment starlet who is trying to fulfill some cliche phantasie? Do you look like you stole them from your little sister?

#4: Texture: Take some inspiration from what's out there - while Prada is proposing the heavy knit knee high socks, MJ is going for thinner ankle socks

#5: If you decide to go for that look, go it all the way! Don't go halfway - it is doomed to look like an accident. Go for the ankle high version or the knee high version.

#6: If it feels wrong - it most likely does look wrong as well - don't force it! Alternative: leg warmers?


My personal favorite: knitted socks with wedges or pumps. Will upload a pic as soon as I find a decent one.

xoxo
Glamazone

Source: vogue.com, style.com, prada.com
Picture Source: style.com